By Kimberly Ruskan
Would you summarize your culinary interests, background, and career?
"I always knew this is what I wanted to do. In high school in New Jersey, I was taking cooking classes at a time when auto mechanics was more popular, but I stuck with it. I went to a culinary school after high school, called the Academy of Culinary Arts. After that I worked in casino restaurants in Atlantic City for four or five years and took it as far as I could. I wanted to go to a real food city, and so I moved to New Orleans. There, I got lucky and had a chance to work with Emeril Lagasse at his first restaurant: Emeril's. That's when my career really started. Next I worked and had fun in Seattle for a while. Soon after I called up Emeril to help me get a job at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago and worked there for a couple of years. I learned so much from that experience. Then I went to work at the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, where I met my wife, Elizabeth, who was the pastry chef at the time. After we worked there for while, we went on a food-and-wine tour in Europe, and then came to North Carolina to start a restaurant. While searching for the perfect location, I was a chef for two years at The Fearrington House, near Chapel Hill. Elizabeth found the historic Bartlett-Mangum House, built in 1908, which we renovated to create Four Square. We are now celebrating our fifth year in business here in Durham."

Would you tell me more about your experiences with Emeril Lagasse?
"I was working with Jamie Shannon at Ivana's at Trump Plaza in New Jersey. Then he got a job in New Orleans, working with Emeril at Commander's Palace as his sous chef, second in command. When Jamie became a head chef, I called him to ask for a job. By the time I got there, they did not need me. So I started interviewing around hotels. A hotel chef told me, 'You don't need to be here. Go talk with Emeril.' It was less money. I'm not sure why I did it, but based on one person's recommendation that I only met once, I took the job with Emeril. At least half of the philosophy and theories of my restaurant development are based on what I learned over the two years I spent with Emeril. He's the most personable guy I've ever met. I got to work with him side-by-side every day. Great guy."

You mentioned Emeril's philosophy and how you incorporated it into your concept for Four Square. Would you elaborate on that?
"The general philosophy is that we're here to provide a service for the people of Durham, then the Triangle, then of course the nation, and the world. Good food, served quickly, at a fare price is a formula for success. Beyond the food, other important service efforts are: everyone's meal at the table will be served at one time, given eye contact, and recognized and addressed by their names. Like in New Orleans, which is a hospitality city. They make you feel like you're at home when you walk into their restaurants. That's what we try to do at Four Square."

What do you have at Four Square that differentiates it from so many restaurants in the area?
"Atmosphere. Were in a historic 1908 Victorian home. It's perfect for a restaurant with tall ceilings, carpeted floors, and divided rooms, which make it quiet and cozy. It's hard to find a freestanding building with ambiance that's not in a strip mall. Also, our cuisine is unique and does not overlap with other restaurants. And what I'm most proud of is our AAA Four Diamond Award, for three consecutive years."

How would you describe the style of your cuisine?
"It's fine dining. People describe it as globally influenced, regional cuisine, contemporary or something like that. We only serve dinners and use influences from around the world. Elizabeth and I are well traveled in the restaurant industry, and we use our travel experiences to create our menu items. We change our menu every month to keep people interested, and create a place where they can come once or twice a month to try something different. The key to our success is the people of Durham. They really support fine dining in this area. They are knowledgeable and not afraid to try new things."

How do you select and create your dishes?
"We're in Durham and so we need to keep pork and beef on the menu, along with vegetarian options. We work within those guidelines as a base. We try to use and bring in regional products, and are forever trying to find local farmers for product. We read a lot, use our experiences, and try to get the best cooks. I have five chefs and would like 10. It's tough to find good chefs in this area."

What do you think is the hardest part of being a restaurateur?
"Finding good help. And the hours are pretty demanding as well. I usually get here around 12:00 p.m. and leave around 10:00 p.m., six days a week. I'm on my feet nine of those 10 hours. It can wear you down."

What do you love about it?
"It's a very passionate business. There's something all too consuming about culinary arts. It's fun. The people in the industry can be like circus people. They're single, roaming around the country, fun, and interesting. The reward of your creation has a short lifespan and the result of the work is finished after 15 or 20 minutes-when the plate is empty. I also like being here in Durham, watching the changes of the season, rotating the menu around the seasonal changes. I really enjoy dealing with people: our employees, customers, purveyors, etc."

How would you define "cooking with artistic liberties"? What does it mean to you?
"Well, first, it's very hot," [he chuckles]. "There's always a lot of heat around you, and pressure. It's almost like a sporting event, where you can feel the adrenaline pushing through you during busy moments. It's my job to orchestrate the flow of movement as it circulates from the preparation of appetizers, to the hot line (entrees), and then to dessert preparation. Lots of energy, moving fast, and we're standing and moving close to each other. As far as cooks go, that is what we live for. The process is so consuming, and energy can be built up during this process. It's a lot of fun."

Foodnetwork had been around for about 10 years and has helped to influence and raise new awareness of enjoying and preparing food with style, flare, and a home-style feel. What do you think about this?
"They have gone to great lengths to educate people about what chefs do and what's available to them. I like to think people are cooking more now."

Many celebrity chefs have evolved from their own restaurants ( creating their celebrity status by growing their concept from their home base. Do you have any aspirations of having your own TV show?
"These guys have done great things for cooks and people like myself. Not only did they raise awareness, but they also raised the bar for restaurant businesses. Elizabeth and I want to do that as well, but are looking into producing a book first to take Four Square into the national spotlight. It's difficult, since the market is flooded with cook books."

What are some favorite dishes that you like preparing?
"I really enjoy working with finesse products like fish and vegetables. I enjoy the challenges of cooking for vegetarians. Meat eaters are pretty easy to please. We try to keep it different and try to create new dishes."

What do you like to eat?
"I like turkey with gravy with cranberry sauce and stuffing. That is my favorite. I could eat that all day long. My favorite holiday is just around the corner. Cooking at home is really different from how we cook at the restaurant. It's Elizabeth and myself, with no pressure! We may have a bottle of wine with dinner; make something simple with fresh products and a meal that is easy to clean up.

Come celebrate Shane and Elizabeth's fifth anniversary in Durham as they welcome you into their home, Four Square Restaurant.

Location
Address: 2701 Chapel Hill Rd.
Durham, North Carolina 27707
Phone: (919) 401-9877
www.foursquarerestaurant.com